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The Canadian canoe has built-in buoyant chambers for safety, with no need for additional buoyancy bags. The hull has a slight rocker and is Vee shaped at the ends for excellent tracking. It is stable and suitable for those new to canoeing and those who want a light open boat that is easy to paddle. The Canadian canoe kit comes with attractive broken inwales and outwales in Ash. This change was introduced in The basic boat is without seats or kneeling thwarts, leaving space for it to be fitted out to your own specification.

The Canadian canoe kit now includes as standard the protective glass layer previously available as an upgrade. This covers the outside of the canoe to give a greater abrasion resistance. The fabric is transparent when coated in epoxy thus the grain of the wood can be seen if the boat is varnished. A detailed Canadian canoe build log with photos can be read on our forum. The manual was very clearly laid out, specific and entertainingly tongue-in-cheek, and kept me on the straight-and-narrow during the epoxy phase. Robnoxious Sutter. Ted Moores. Edwin Monk. Rick Butz. Robert Steward.

David C McIntosh. John Gardner. Howard Irving Chapelle. Richard Butz. Russell J Brown. Gary Dierking. Randy Folsom. Dave Gerr. Daniel James Brown.

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David Walsh. William Nealy. Franco Ferrero. Lorraine Boissoneault. Nigel Foster. Doug Cooper. British Canoe Union. Becky Lomax. Denis Dwyer.

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  4. Craig Lambert. It is certainly an easy method of round bilged hull construction and one which produces a very tough 'one piece' monocoque hull shell which will require little maintenance and which will last far longer than a conventionally built wood hull. The Manual starts by discussing the merits of strip planking and the types of hulls that are best suited to this method of construction. It goes through the possible difficulties of strip planking certain hull shapes and how these difficulties may be over come.

    Suitable materials for constructing the hull are discussed including the use of square edged versus profile edged planks and epoxy versus polyurethane glues. Guidance and examples are also given for calculating material requirements. Different types of building jig are discussed along with the marking, shaping and the setting up of moulds.

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    The setting up of the internal backbone structure is then covered and after a description of the planking process, the Manual covers the best methods for preparing the hull for finishing. Veneering and glass sheathing are then described. Finally, tool requirements and the care and repair of strip planked hulls is described along with fitting decks etc.

    This new manual incorporates our old "Manual of Sail Making for the Home Boatbuilder" but now also includes several new sections.

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    These include a discussion of the most popular rigs used for dinghies, dayboats and yachts traditional and modern , how to balance the rig with the hull of a boat for those wanting to change rig , how to design and make a simple Junk Rig, a lengthened section on re-cutting altering existing sails for those using 2nd hand sails from another design , positioning deck gear and fault finding, how to purchase new sails from a sail maker including a list of UK sail makers and a list of companies who sell sail making materials and tools.

    A large part of the manual is still dedicated to making your own suit of sails - rather than being a mystery, the construction of a sail is broken down into it's different structural parts in much the same way as the hull structure of a boat with 76 clear diagrams showing the construction techniques used to make up the components of the sail. Also included is a section on the re-cutting of old sails and on fault finding. The whole manual will give the owner who already has a suit of sails, a better understanding of how his sails work and what may be wrong if he has a problem with them.

    For further details of Sails for the Home Boat Builder click here.

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